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The Perfect End

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Last night I got back to Santiago and did the two things I really wanted to do to finish up.   One was getting the final stamp in my Pilgrim Passport. This is stamped at each albergue along the way and used as proof that you have indeed walked the whole Camino.   You're then meant to submit this to get (buy) a Compostella, a certificate of the Camino.  But for me the 32 stamps are enough and I'll frame this when I get home.   The other thing was to go to the Pilgrim Mass. Santiago Cathedral was packed yet hushed in the lead up.  The cathedral is ornate with gold leaf on the high altar yet it seemed fitting and tasteful here where  it has seemed to me tacky and over the top in some other places.  Mass was lovely. And yes, we got the botufumero (the giant swinging incenser) which doesn't happen at every Mass. But the most important things happened before Mass began.  I arrived 90 min early to get a good seat and hold one for Josh. I spent time just praying, thinking, being st

The Retreat at the End of the World

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 These two days at Finisterre have been somewhat of a retreat. It's been time to do some of the reading, praying, thinking and journalling which I thought I would get done on the Way, but didn't. To stop. To not need to go anywhere. To not just be at peace, but also to be still.   It's been time to turn my heart to home, which for me includes starting to read the scripture readings of the upcoming Sunday Masses, to let them start to percolate in me, so that I can prepare a homily next week and then for the weeks ahead.  It's also been a nice step down from the intensity and busyness of being part of a group, always on the move, to having just one other person around, to then going home on my own. Josh and I gave each other plenty of time and space yesterday to do our own thing, each of us in more reflective mode, before meeting up in the afternoon for a long awaited swim and then dinner.  Admittedly, not great swimming weather. Finisterre is 42 degrees north and on the

Finisterre

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 Sometimes you need a holiday to get over the holiday.  Today was a day of farewells as our group went our separate ways, which of course was always going to happen.  and so it was that Josh and I took the long and windy bus west from Santiago, snaking over the Gallican mountains and oh so many wind turbines  and in and out of beautiful fishing villages to arrive at Finisterre on the western coast of Spain.  I snagged a great last minute deal on a two bedroom apartment which even has two bathrooms, and a balcony overlooking the bay.  We were both disproportionately happy to go to a supermarket and stock up because for the first time in a month (or two for Josh who was travelling before the Camino) we have a kitchen, and a fridge, and nowhere we have to go tomorrow. I bought broccoli.  To spend two consective nights in the same place will be the start of coming down from the Camino, and facing back toward home.    

The End.... Almost

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Each day of the Camino has been for me a time of gratitude for each year of my priesthood. Having come to 2024 yesterday, the final day of walking was a time to reflect on the Camino itself.  I am grateful for the time, the opportunity and the means to be able to walk it.  I am grateful for a body which, for the most part, works well enough that I could walk the 1.3 million steps which Max's Strava calculated on our 800ish km.  I am grateful for the many hospitaleros and staff at albergues, some of whom are volunteers for their hospitality.  I am grateful for the capacity to enjoy being alone, and to be with people. I am grateful for the capacity to perceive beauty and to experience awe and wonder.  And as I walked along I recognised that this has been one of the now four great side trips of my life.  The trajectory of my life is pretty straightforward, from seminary at aged 19 to ordination at age 26 through ministry in parish after parish through to now. And I am grateful to God

2024

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 And so my reflections arrive at last at 2024! This is actually day 28 of walking, because I've had a couple of extra reflections on this blog which were tucked in between the annual ones.  When I first planned to walk the Camino the 25 days for 25 years seemed perfect. Then I realised that I might need a few extra days (I've got 33 on the ground in Spain), but I still secretly thought I'd crush the walking part and have time to arrive in Santiago, walk to Finisterre, and maybe even walk back to Santiago.  But one thing the Camino has taught me is humilty (and I'll write more on this later I think). I thought that as an experienced hiker and with my natural walking speed it would all be a piece of cake. But the ankle injury on day 2 which almost sent me home slowed me down, and as the ankle healed the constant blisters took over. But the blisters are now manageable, and I think I'll be able to finish strong.  And the finishing line is in sight: today we passed the 1

2023

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 Scrap yesterday's declaration that it was the best day of walking. Today was the best day of walking, even if it was by accident.  There are a number of detours on the Camino (which makes the 800km total variable). The choice is usually to follow a main road, or detour out through the countryside. Josh and I had intended to take the main road today, but ended up on the detour, which added several kilometers, but was so worth it.  We walked in a light drizzle through bucolic farmland where the ground was soft under foot, and up into a temperate rainforest. At one stage we just stopped to eat a couple of apples which Josh had picked from an overhanging tree and to look at the raindrops creating ripples on the surface of pond far below, and to listen to the rush of the water further down. We probably stood there in silence for ten minutes, and if I had to name the best ten minutes of the Camino, that might have been it.  The detour also took us through to the Benedictine monastery of

2022

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Today was probably the nicest day of walking so far. I descended from the mountain town of O Cebreiro down to Triacastela at 700m which doesn't have the three castles I was expecting. I started in the dark (sunrise is 8.20am) and in cloud but along an easy sand & gravel surface. A couple of hours in I met up with Ophelie, Raf and Chelsea at a cafe for breakfast, and then half an hour later met caught up with Josh who had found a prime position to just sit and absorb the landscape as the clouds burned off the mountain and revealed the valley floor. Josh and I then walked the rest of the steep but lovely descent into town, having another great faith conversation along the way.   Am I really disappointed that there is not a castle in town, let alone three? No, not really. We've been walking past so many cathedrals and churches, castles, monuments and museums yet hardly going into any of them. Tim was saying at lunch that he's surprised at the lack of FOMO about all the thi